The article appeared, online at least, in the “news” department for the Life and Style section of The Independent, a London-based daily newspaper. I point this out because some of what was reported was clearly a matter of opinion, while other sections were merely false.
First the author claims that while Brits value creamy textures and taste, Americans prefer chocolate that has a “sourness” and “gritty texture”. It’s so clearly a matter of personal preference that I’m shocked any editor could let it pass for fact in a news story.
Nonetheless, as a matter of personal opinion it’s not verifiably wrong like some other information appearing in the story.
For example, the article claims that one major difference between British or European chocolate and U.S. chocolate is that American chocolate is typically made from South American cocoa beans and that European chocolate is generally made from West African cocoa beans. The truth is that the majority of chocolate the world over is made using beans from West Africa or proprietary blends of beans incorporating some from West Africa. While native to South and Central America, cocoa is grown in many countries around the world and West Africa is by far the largest producer at this time. That means it’s likely that any chocolate you eat – whether made by an American producer or a European producer – contains beans grown in West Africa.
The reporter goes on to say that some American chocolate contains the additive PGPR, which he claims “can act in the place of more expensive cocoa butter.” PGPR is an emulsifier. Almost every chocolate manufacturer around the world uses emulsifiers like lecithin, PGPR or Ammonium phosphatides in order to keep the cocoa butter and the cocoa solids from separating. PGPR has the additional benefits of improving texture and allowing manufacturers to have a chocolate that flows very well (this is helpful when making, for example, hollow chocolate). Additionally, it can only be used in small quantities not to exceed .3 percent of the total product weight.
Second, no chocolate product sold in the U.S. is permitted to contain any fats other than cocoa butter. In the EU, where countries subscribe to a different standard of identity, manufacturers are permitted to label a product as chocolate if it contains no more than 5 percent of an additional vegetable fat. That same product could not be sold as chocolate in U.S.; the label would have to indicate the difference.
I love Cadbury chocolate – Cadbury Fruit and Nut makes me super happy. But I also love American chocolate. There are no substitutes for a Snickers bar, a Hershey Milk Chocolate with Almonds or a Baby Ruth in my mind. Every manufacturer in the world has a different recipe for chocolate. There are regional differences, but that doesn’t make one chocolate better or worse than another. It just makes them different. And that variety? Well, that’s what I love most about chocolate.
Photo credit: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mmoosa/ / CC BY 2.0